INTRODUCTION
Chiang Rai is the most northern province of Thailand. The mighty Mekong river creates a border in the north to both Laos and Myanmar (Burma). The place where all these countries touch is the famous-infamous Golden Triangle. The terrain of Chiang Rai province is mountainous and covered in large parts with tropical rain forests. The scenery is among the most beautiful of Thailand and one of the best things about Chiang Rai province is its rich cultural diversity - lots of different ethnic communities - various hill tribes, Thais, ancient aboriginal people like the Lawa or Khamu, Shans, Lao, Chinese, and Mon, they all live peacefully and friction free together. In addition, the province offers opportunities for boat tours (on the river Kok and on the Mekong), elephant rides, hill trekking, and sightseeing. Combine all these and you'll know why it is a very worthwhile destination for travelers.
The river Kok near Chiang Rai
Most visitors start at the province capital which is also named Chiang Rai. It is a small, peaceful town, with a few interesting temples, markets, and museums. Accommodation ranges from inexpensive guest houses to 4 start hotels (the Dusit Island Resort, for instance). It is a very pleasant town, people are friendly and the pace of life is still very tranquil.
The attractions of the town Chiang Rai include two temples and some interesting museums. Other things to do in the province are for instance boat rides on the Mekong or raft tours on the Kok river. In the evenings a night market that offers a large variety of handicraft opens daily after sundown. It can be found between the bus station and Pahonyothin Road. To see more of Chiang Rai province you will have to leave the town and go on one of the tours suggested in the following pages.
The Golden Triangle is the place of the Mekong where the borders of Thailand, Myanmar (Burma), and Laos touch and the rivers Ruak and Mekong join. If there was no sign on the bank of the river that advertises this fact no doubt nobody would notice anything there that is special. Nevertheless, the Golden Triangle is a "must" for every visitor of Chiang Rai province. There used to be nothing at this place but with the advent of tourism a small village, called Sob Ruak, was founded, and now countless souvenir booths and small restaurants line the road. There are also two international class hotels, the Imperial Golden Triangle Hotel, which is quite decent, and the Baan Boran Hotel (formerly called Le Meridien Baan Boran), which is exquisite. Hill Tribe Children posing for a picture
The main attraction of Sob Ruak are boat tours - rent a longtail boat for an hour or so and speed up the Mekong river. To the left are Thailand and Myanmar, and on the right is Laos. Lots of interesting things can be observed on the water - fishing boats, Lao housewives doing their laundry in the river, skipper's wives preparing lunch on the boat while their little children climb around, monks taking a walk on the river banks, and plenty of other things.
If you are dressed reasonably smart and would like to take your lunch in very nice surroundings, drive to the Baan Boran Hotel for lunch. They have a good restaurant with an extensive menu where you can sit outside on the terrace and enjoy a beautiful view of the lush valley of the Mekong and the green hills beyond.
The tour to the Golden Triangle can easily be combined with a visit to Chiang Saen.
The town of Chiang Rai was founded in the 13th century (at least that is when it was first mentioned in the annals). It was founded by King Mengrai who also founded Chiang Mai further south), a very successful politician and ruler. He made Chiang Rai the first capital of his new kingdom and has a fortress built to hold the Mongols at bay who kept invading the country from the north).
Little remains of this interesting past, and Chiang Rai today is mostly popular for its pleasant, relaxed atmosphere, and its rich cultural diversity. It is the best starting point for trekking tours to the tribal villages in the hills around the Golden Triangle and also for sightseeing tours to the region. Nevertheless, there are some nice spots in Chiang Rai that are worth a visit. They are all in the old part of the town and you can easily walk from one to the other, with the exception of the museums.
Let's start at Wat Phra Singh. It is located in the north of the old town, south of the Kok river (Mae Kok). It holds one of the oldest Buddha images in Northern Thailand. It is also famous for its modern doors on which two really fierce looking guardians are depicted.
From this temple walk to left and at the next corner again to the left. You are now on Ruang Nakhon Road. On the left side is a market that you can explore. After the visit to the market proceed walk right (towards the river). You will reach Wat Phra Kaew - it has the same name as the famous temple in Bangkok, and for the same reason: "Temple of the Emerald Buddha". It is here, in its Chedi that in the year 1436 the small jade Buddha image was found or "stolen", as some might say :-) that is now displayed in Bangkok. Recently a copy was made that is now on exhibit in a small new viharn (chapel). The inauguration of the building and the statue was an important event attended by the king and high officials; pictures of the ceremony are displayed inside the building. Apart from that Wat Phra Kaew is a lovely traditional Lanna style Temple with the typical rich decor of woodcarvings and leaf gold. There are lots of other temples in Chiang Rai, but Wat Phra Singh and Wat Phra Kaew are the essential ones.
Entrance Gate of Wat Phra Kaew
The two museums are located a bit farther
away - take a tuk-tuk, as the distances
are several kilometers. The first one is the
Haw Kham Mae Fah Luang Royal Museum.
You can find it on Rajyotha Road, in a a
beautiful Lanna style teak wood building.
Its focus is on religious objects - wooden
Buddha images, monk's fans, and carved
wooden screen, swords, stone markers,
and so on. It is surrounded by nice
gardens with a lake.
The second interesting museum is theOub Kham, also located in a lovely garden.
It is located near the military hospital and
Den Ha wet market. This museum offers\
interesting relics from Lanna's royal past:
processional chairs, peacock fans, cloths
and costumes, silver work, and statuary.
The museum is named for the golden bowl
that in old Lanna was part of the regalia
and to be used only by the king and its
family.
Doi Tung means "flag mountain". It is 1800 meters high, located on the border to Myanmar (Burma), and popular for the Mae Fah Luang Royal Gardens and Wat Doi Tung, a temple on the top of the mountain. The trip to Doi tung is itself very nice, it leads through very beautiful mount scenery, and on the way are elephant camps and hill tribe villages to visit, so it is really a worthwhile day tour. Elephant Camp Depart at around 9 am latest from Chiang Rai. You can go by car, either self driven or with a chauffeur - the latter is not much for expensive, and you will not have to pay attention to the road. You could also go by motor bike, if you prefer that. On the way you can make detours to see that Phong Pha Bat waterfalls and near Mae San a hot spring, but honestly, you won't miss much if you skip them :-). Your first stop should be the Karen elephant camp Baan Ruammit on the bank of a small river. The village is quite touristy, with lots of souvenir shops and nobody except the shop girls dresses in the traditional costume. Nevertheless, it is interesting. And the real attraction, of course, are the elephants. You can rent them for half and full hours (at least 1 hour is recommended). From the top of a platform you get onto the howdah on the back of the elephant and then the mahout gently directs the animal up the hill and into the jungle. At first being so high above the ground may feel scary, but you will soon get used to it. The beauty of an elephant ride is that it can take you places a car or a bike cannot and where it would be uncomfortable to walk. Plus, elephants make no noise - it is a quiet ride, only interrupted now and then when the elephant finds something interesting to nibble on and won't continue until it has eaten. You can hear the birds and the cicadas sing, inspect epiphytic orchids that grow in the tree here and there, and watch the butterflies. Don't forget to feed your elephant some bananas or sugar cane after the end of the ride - they expect this treat! If you like to, you can sit in the small open air cafeteria, drink something, and watch the elephants, grownups and babies, splashing around in the river. Elephants love water, indeed, they need to moisten their skin regularly and therefore should be given access to water whenever they want. Where they are not allowed this, the camp is not well run and the animals are mistreated. Avoid such camps! After the elephant camp continue on the road to Doi Tung. It soon leads into a mountain terrain and the road becomes quite steep. Lovely scenic views can be enjoyed as your car or bike climbs up higher and higher. Doi Tung was a favourite place of the late king's mother. She had a residence built, on Doi Tung Moop (which is not open for sightseeing tours). What can be visited here are the royal gardens and the mountain top temple, Wat Doi tung. On the way are also interesting hill tribe villages where you can stop. The most interesting is probably the Akha village, quite near the summit. You can see simple houses, children playing, hens rpicking in the dust for grains, and other scenes of rustic life. Most of the women wear the traditional dark costume with short skirt, knee high leggings, and the famous elaborate headdresses that are decorated with silver coins. The Akha of this village are used to foreign visitors and welcome them as a source of income - plenty of souvenirs are offered, and every clicking of your camera will result in the extension of at least one hand, followed by a demand for money. After the visit to the Akha village continue to the Mae Fah Luang gardens. Although the flowers are not spectacular for tourists form the Northern Hemisphere (they are mostly plants from temperate zones, like begonias, snap dragons, delphiniums, hollyhocks, and so on), the gardens are beautifully landscaped and offer good views of the surrounding mountains. Take time for a leisurely stroll along the flower beds and afterwards for some coffee or tea on the open air terrace of the simple cafeteria. Entrance is 70 Baht. On the way to Doi Tung From the gardens drive up the mountain to Wat Doi Tung (there are signs). The road runs in serpentines and offers exiting views of the valleys and forests beyond. Drive past the temple Wat Noi Doi tung (which is not very interesting) and on the to the summit to Wat Doi tung. Its two small chedis are very old - the were built as early as 911 AD. Apparently people even then enjoyed the splendid panorama. The gorgeous views of the mountains of upper Burma are indeed astonishing, especially on clear days. From a small sitting area visitors have a particularly breathtaking view, as well as from the walkway lined with posts form which hang large temple bells. The walkway leads to a staircase decorated with two Nagas that takes you to a couple of souvenir stalls if you are interested in buying something. Doi Mae Salong is one of those places where the journey there is more beautiful and worthwhile than the place itself. Don't miss this trip, as it leads on a very good road through beautiful mountains. The splendid views on the way alone are worth driving to Mae Salong. The little town was founded in the 1960s by former Kuomintang (anti-Communist) soldiers who had been expelled from Burma (Myanmar) and settled on the lovely mountain, unfortunately only in order to compete with the local drug barons for a sizable share in the opium and heroin trade. On the way to Doi Mae Salong At that time Mae Salong was more or less a fortress. When the Chinese were defeated by the more powerful Shan lord Khun Sa they opted for the more peaceful and socially acceptable business of fruit growing. The peaches and lychees from Mae Salong are delicious and justly famed. Today MAE Salong is entirely safe and peaceful. On the way lies the Akha village Ikoh San Yuek that is worth a detour. Although it is nowadays overrun by tourists its shops nevertheless still offer a good selection of traditional hill tribe handicraft. After the village the road parts - the road to the right should be avoided (it leads into dangerous territory), instead drive ahead. Hill Tribe Village Mae Salong is 1800 meters above the sea level and cool enough for Japanese cherry trees to bloom - as you will see if you come in the right season. The town has Chinese temples, open air bazaars, and shops that offer Chinese specialties as tea and locally grown preserved fruit. There are several little restaurants that offer good southern Chinese food, and even a couple of simple, but clean guest houses. Mae Salong is also a market place for the Lisu and Akha from the surrounding hill tribe villages. For these reasons it is definitely worth spending a few hours in the town, to walk around, savour the special atmosphere, and to enjoy the grandiose mountain panorama. The Chiang Saen of today is a normal south east Asian town, a little bit sleepy and dusty, with lots of simple little shops that sell all kinds of goods, some government offices, some guest houses, a wet market (interesting, especially if you come in the morning when the freshest fruit and vegetables are offered in a large variety), and friendly small restaurants along the main street. The main attraction of present day Chiang Saen is the river Mekong on whose banks it has been built. River boats from Yunnan in China are unloading almost every day. There is a long promenade along the river, with many stalls that sell clothes, shoes, toys, and souvenirs, as well as some simple restaurants. Take a stroll and watch as the boats unload their cargo. At the boat rental booth you can rent a long tail boat for a one hour (or more) ride up the Mekong; you will be able to observe interesting scenes of daily life along the river. Boats from Yunnan Boat tours to Laos are also offered, however, a visa is required that you must get BEFORE your trip (Laos does not offer day trip visa, so you need to apply for one at the Lao embassy of your home country; the visa is usually granted, but you should allow 6 weeks for the process). This is modern day Chiang Saen. The town has, however, a long history, and once it was the capital of the oldest Thai kingdom on Thai territory, founded in the 10th century, immediately after the Thai first entered the region, presumably coming from an area at the Mekong river near what is today the Chinese province of Yunnan. A number of archeological sites, not as impressive as Ayuthaya or Lopburi, but nevertheless interesting and charming, remain from these times. From the river promenade follow the streets that leads at a right angle into town. You can walk until you arrive at the remains of the old brick city wall (it is less than a mile) or you can rent a tuk-tuk. Ask the driver to take you to Wat Pa Sak, Wat Phra Thom Kitti, and to the National Museum (and afterwards back into town). There are more temples in Chiang Saen, but these are the most remarkable ones. The cost for the tour should not be much more than 100 Baht. Wat Pa Sak means "The temple in the teak forest" - the forest is long gone, but some trees, offering welcome shade, are still surrounding it and give the place a pleasant, tranquil atmosphere. Entrance to the temple is 30 Baht. Most of the buildings are still in ruins; you can see them scattered about the place. Only the large, rectangular chedi, built in 1295 Ad, has been restored. It has been built from red bricks, like the city wall. Its style is a mixture of Haripunchai (another old Lanna capital, near Chiang Mai), Sukothai, and Burmese elements ( the "lace work" like decorations). Stucco Buddhassna din the niches of the chedi's four walls and smile serenely. At Wat Phra Thom Kitti After your visit to Wat Pa Sak ask your tuk-tuk driver to take you to Wat Phra Thom Kitti. This temple is even older than Wat Pa Sak; its foundations were dated back to the 7th century (and they are thus Pre Thai). It is located on a hill; a long stone stairway (with broad and safe steps) leads up to it. From here you have a wonderful view of the mountain panorama, the river, and the confluence at the Golden Triangle. The next, and last, stop is the National museum of Chiang Saen. Although it is quite small it is worth a visit, as it displays not only ancient sculptures with inscriptions that were excavated at the archeological sites, but also a fine collection of ancient Chiang Saen style Buddha statues and lots of objects form everyday life in Lanna, such as pottery, weapons, baskets, fish traps, fish nets, and other utensils for fishing that were very important for people whose major source of food was a river. There are also exhibits that are dedicated to the various hill tribes of the region, their clothing, and their life styles. The museum shop offers book in Thai and English about history, religion, and culture of Thailand and other Asian countries. For nature lovers: 4 km outside of Chiang Saen is a lake. A tuk-tuk can take you there. It is a lovely spot for walks and bird watching.
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