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Saturday, January 31, 2009

AMAZING BANGKOK






SAWASDEE KRAP




Introducing Bangkok

Same same, but different. It’s Thailish T-shirt philosophy that neatly sums up Bangkok, a city combining the tastes of many places into a unique and oftenspicy dish that is never, ever boring.

Such contradictions give the City of Angels its rich, multi-faceted personality. Delve just a little deeper and you’ll find a city of climate-controlled mega-malls and international brand names just minutes from 200-year-old village homes; of gold-spired Buddhist temples sharing space with neon-lit strips of sleaze; of slow-moving rivers of cars bypassed by long-tail boats plying the royal river; and of streets lined with food carts selling Thai classics for next to nothing, overlooked by restaurants on top of skyscrapers serving international cuisine.

If all this sounds dizzying, rest assured that despite its international flavour, Bangkok remains resolutely Thai. The capital’s cultural underpinnings are evident in virtually all facets of everyday life, and most enjoyably through the Thai sense of sànùk, loosely translated as ‘fun’. In Thailand anything worth doing – even work – should have an element of sànùk. Whether you’re ordering food, changing money or haggling at the vast Chatuchak Market, it will usually involve a sense of playfulness – a dash of flirtation, perhaps, and a smile.

In fairness, there are times in Bangkok that are more fun than others. The city’s three seasons (cool, hot and wet) are all pretty warm, but November to February is the most enjoyable – not that the rest of the year is impossible – and the tropical storms of the wet season bring a dramatic relief.



Bangkok today widely is considered to be one of the most dynamic and colorful cities in Asia. Its history is no less a colorful transformation from a sleepy village to a fast-paced 21st century mega-city, with a modern city skyline. Bangkok has considerable cultural and historical signifi cance, from the early days of the “Rattanakosin Era” to its expansion in the nineteenth century. Bangkok’s evolution into the current regional hub of Asian came about while preserving the city’s unique soul and character, with its landmarks of temples and palaces that remain relatively unchanged over the years.




How to Get in

Most major roads, trains and planes in Thailand lead to Bangkok.

By plane




Bangkok has two airports operating. Allow at least three hours to connect between them.

Suvarnabhumi Airport

Located 30 kilometres (19 miles) to the east of Bangkok, space-age Suvarnabhumi Airport (สุวรรณภูมิ), pronounced "soo-wanna-poom", (IATA: BKK) (ICAO: VTBS) [2] started operations in September 2006 and is now Bangkok's main airport as well as the busiest airport in Southeast Asia, used by all international flights as well as all Bangkok Airways (PG), Air Asia (FD), SGA Airline (5E), PBair (9Q) and Thai Airways domestic flights with three-digit flight numbers (eg. TG123). There is only one terminal building, which covers both domestic and international flights, but it's huge (by some measures the world's largest) so allow time for getting around.

Suvarnabhumi Airport
Suvarnabhumi Airport

Suvarnabhumi offers all facilities expected of a major international airport (transit hotel, ATMs, money exchange). The cheapest place to eat is the Magic food court on Level 1, near Gate 8, while perhaps the most comfortable and relaxing of the airport's restaurants and cafes is the Sky Lounge on the 6th floor. Here you can have your latte while sitting in plush leather sofas and enjoying a panoramic view over the runways - prices are also quite reasonable with coffee around 70 baht a cup. The observation lounge on 7th is not much to see since the steel structure of the roof blocks most of the airport view. There are a few stores in the check-in area including a convenience store and a post office; however, the real shopping experience awaits travellers on the other side of immigration in the departure lounge area, where the number of shops and duty free outlets leaves you wondering if you are in a mall or an airport. Beware though, that past security in the gate waiting area, there are no services except toilets and seating.

Transportation

Limousine taxis (which charge by distance, e.g. around 800 baht to central Sukhumvit) can be reserved at the limousine hire counter on the 2nd floor (just outside Arrivals), and aggressive touts will try to entice you on board. If you allow yourself to be waylaid by one of the taxi touts they might quote you more than double the fare that an ordinary metered taxi would charge (900 baht instead of 400, for example). You'd be silly even acknowledging their existence - walk straight past them.

A better option are the ordinary metered taxis available on the 2nd floor. Follow the "public taxi" signs that lead to the outside of the airport premises, queue up and state your destination at the desk, and you'll get a slip with your destination written in Thai on it. There is a 50-baht surcharge on the meter, meaning that trips to the city will cost 250-400 baht (plus 2 expressway toll of 45 & 20 Baht) and take 40-60 minutes depending on traffic/location. (Beware of taxi drivers who claim that the 50 baht surcharge is applied to each passenger as opposed to per taxi. Also beware of taxi drivers who try to charge you 50 baht surcharge going back to the airport. There should only be a 50 baht surcharge for exiting the airport.) If there is a huge taxi queue, consider taking a free shuttle bus to the Public Transport Centre, which has more taxis. Go straight to the official "Taxi Stand" and wait there.

There is also a stop outside the 1st floor exit for Airport Express buses, which charge a flat 150 baht and operate hourly from 7 AM until midnight, covering four routes, each taking about 60 to 90 minutes:

The BMTA public bus lines are:

  • 549: Suvarnabhumi-Bangkapi
  • 550: Suvarnabhumi-Happy Land
  • 551: Suvarnabhumi-Victory Monument (BTS)
  • 552: Suvarnabhumi-On Nut (BTS)-Klong Toei
  • 552A: Suvarnabhumi-Sam Rong
  • 553: Suvarnabhumi-Samut Phrakan
  • 554: Suvarnabhumi-Don Muang Airport
  • 555: Suvarnabhumi-Rangsit (Expressway)
  • 556: Suvarnabhumi-Southern Bus Terminal (Expressway)
  • 559: Suvarnabhumi-Rangsit (Outer Ring Road)

To give an example, the fare between Suvarnabhumi and On Nut BTS station on the 552 is 32 baht, and the journey (On Nut to the airport) takes about 40 minutes in mid-afternoon traffic.

There are also privately-owned BMTA minivans to many parts of Bangkok, such as Don Muang Airport, Bang Kapi, Rangsit, Samut Prakarn, etc. They charge in flat rate 50 baht.

To take a minivan or a public bus, you must first take a free shuttle bus ride (from the outside 2nd floor) to the separate terminal (Public Transport Center). The minivans go directly to the destination, so they are faster than the public buses, which stop frequently along the way.

These services take about 1 hour to 2 hours depending on Bangkok traffic and frequency is usually every 20 mins during daytime and night time ranges from 20 mins to 1 hour depending on route. Long-distance 1st class bus services connect Suvarnabhumi directly with Chachoengsao, Nong Khai, Pattaya, Rayong, and Trat.

An airport express train to the future City Air Terminal at Makkasan (connecting to MRT Phetchaburi) and onward to Phaya Thai (connecting to BTS Phaya Thai) is under construction, but is not expected to be ready before mid-2009 at the earliest. Die-hard rail fans with lots of time to kill can take bus 517 to Hua Takhe station (15 baht), a few km from the airport, and continue on any 3rd class train to Asok or Hualamphong (7 baht).

Accommodation

At present, there are only a few hotels located near Suvarnabhumi Airport, though with huge construction projects planned for the area this will change over the next few years. Day room facilities for transit passengers are now available at the 'Miracle Grand Louis Tavern' on floor 4, Concourse G (Tel+66 6 317-2211, 2000 baht per 4-hour block, no reservations accepted). Cheapskate travellers looking for a free quiet place to doze undisturbed at night should head for the prayer rooms.

The Tourist Authority of Thailand and other hotel and tourist agencies have counters on the second floor of the main terminal. These agencies offer hotel reservation service. Check for special promotions and also whether the hotel offers airport pick up and drop off service - especially useful for late night arrivals and early morning departures.

  • Novotel Suvarnabhumi Airport Hotel, Suvarnabhumi Airport, +66 2 131-1111 (), [3]. The only hotel in the airport itself, connected to the main airport terminal by a pedestrian bridge, the Novotel is very nice and, by Thai standards, very pricey. 3,500+ baht. edit
  • Great Residence Hotel, Lat Krabang Rd, Suvarnabhumi, Lat Krabang e-mail bookings@greatresidence.net [4]. Only 5 minutes from Suvarnabhumi Airport on the cusp of the airport grounds. Rooms Fr. 620Bt+ (inclusive of American Breakfast).
  • Queen's Garden Resort, 44 Soi 7, Suvarnabhumi, Lat Krabang Fax: +66 2 172 6114, e-mail info@queensgardenresort.net[5]. The hotel is just 5-10 minutes from Suvarnabhumi Airport. Located on the banks of a sleepy river, the resort has views towards Lat Krabang Temple. Features wireless high speed internet, big screen TV, pool table, restaurant and beer garden. Rooms 900+ baht.
  • Thong Ta Resort, On Nut, Suvarnabhumi, Lat Krabang e-mail info@siamairportmotel.com [6]. The resort is only 10 minutes from Suvarnabhumi Airport. Situated near a vibrant restaurant/bar parade. Rooms 800Bt+ (inclusive of American Breakfast).
  • Grand Inn Come Hotel, 99 Moo 6, Kingkaew Road, Rachataeva, Bangplee, Samutprakan, +66 2 738-8191-3. About a 15-20 minute drive from the airport. Bus 553 stops here. 1,200 - 2,000 baht. edit
  • JL Bangkok, 5 Soi Ramkhamhaeng 23, Ramkhamhaeng Road, Tel:+66 2 369 2407-9 email: sales@jlbangkok.com [7] 20-30 minutes drive from the Suvarnhabhumi Airport. Close to night market and malls. Free high speed wireless internet. Rooms from Baht 1400 - 2200/night.
  • Royal Princess Srinakarin, 905 Moo 6, Srinakarin Road, Nongbon, Pravet, tel:+66 2 728-400. Fax:721- 8432. A 20-30 minute drive from airport. Rooms from 3,500+ baht.
  • Sananwan Palace, 18/11 moo 11. Sukapibarn Road 5 , Bangpli Yai tel:+66 2 752-1658 (Mobile) +66 818644615. Family-owned budget accommodation with swimming pool, TV and high speed internet about 20 minutes drive from the airport. Rooms with A/C: 600 baht.
  • Avana Hotel, 23/1 Moo 12 Soi 14/1, Bangna-Trad Road. Tel:+66 2 763-2900. 3-star hotel about 30 minutes drive from the airport. Rooms 1,200 to 3,000 baht.
  • Nasa Vegas Hotel[8]. 44 Ramkhamhaeng Road. Tel :+66 2 719-9888 Fax:+66 2 719-9899 - About 15 mins drive from the new airport. Rooms from 590 + baht.
  • Ratchana Place[9]. 199 Moo 4, Soi Wat Sirisaothong, Bangna Trad Highway KM 26, Bangbo, Samutprakan 10540 Tel: +66 2 313-4480~9 booking@ratchanaplace.com - About 15-20 mins drive from the airport. Rooms between 350 - 700 baht.
  • Nawarat Resort & Serviced Apartment[10]. 19/49 Moo 7 Bangna-Trad Road, Km.9, Bangkaew, Bangplee, Samutprakan 10540 Tel: +66 2 750-3040~2 - About 15 mins drive from the airport. Rooms 900+ baht.

Don Muang Airport

Don Muang Airport (IATA: DMK) (ICAO: VTBD)(or Don Mueang), 20 km north of downtown, was Bangkok's main airport until 2006. The airport handles Nok Air[11] and Thai Airways domestic flights with four-digit flight numbers (eg. TG1234), but the former international terminal is now limited to charters and general aviation.

The public taxi stand is located on the sidewalk outside the arrivals area (don't be fooled by all the taxi service booths in the main hall), and is probably your best bet for getting into town — it's also your only option after 11 PM. Give your destination (English is understood) and you will receive a two-part ticket at the booth. The charge into town will be the meter + 50 baht + toll if you take the expressway (recommended, 30-70 baht), for a usual total of 200-300 baht. The small part is for your driver, the large part is for you. This ticket is for complaints and is how the system is enforced: hold on to it to help avoid arguments later. The trip into town takes 30 minutes and up depending on traffic conditions.

If the line at the taxi stand is long or you need a more spacious car, you may want to book a (so-called) limousine from the desks in the terminal. This will get you a slightly nicer car at about twice the price (500-600 baht). Ignore any touts outside and do not get into any car with white license plates, as these are not licensed to carry passengers.

Across a covered overpass from the airport is the train station. Tickets to Hualamphong station cost 5 baht at the ticket booth. While taking the train is the cheapest way to get from the airport to Bangkok, it is not for the faint-of-heart: schedules are erratic, the run-down passenger cars often have beggars roaming through them, and are relatively empty late at night.

There are also a number of public transport buses going by the airport. Just take a overpass to the real road bypassing the airport and stop the bus of your choice. For example the air-con bus 504 will take you to CentralWorld (a large department store formerly known as the World Trade Center), from where you'll have access to the Skytrain as well as many other buses, or Lumpini Park, from where you get access to the metro, for 22 baht. Note that large baggage is not allowed.

If you're flying Thai Airways, you can do a city check-in at Lad Phrao MRT station, from where free shuttle buses leave 1:50 before each Thai flight. The same buses also run in the reverse direction from the airport.

By bus





Bangkok's three official long haul bus terminals are:

  • North & North Eastern Bus Terminal - also known as Moh Chit (or Mor Chit or Morchit), this is the largest, busiest, and most modern terminal. The upper floor serves the North-East (Isaan); the ground floor serves the North, as well as sharing some destinations with Ekamai (including Pattaya, Rayong, Chanthaburi and Trat). It's a 30-baht moto hop (or a lengthy hike across Chatuchak Park) from BTS Moh Chit/Metro Chatuchak stations (N8/18), or take the 77 bus and pay the 7-baht flat fare on board. See the Phahonyothin District guide for details.
  • Southern Bus Terminal - also known as Sai Tai Taling Chan, this terminal serves all points west and south from its somewhat inconvenient location on the "wrong" side of the river. Note that in December 2007, the terminal moved to a new, even more remote location, at Phutthamonthon Soi 1 in the Taling Chan district. See the Thonburi District guide for details.

When arriving in Bangkok...

  • Late at night, the easiest way from Northern or Southern terminal to your final destination will be by metered-taxi.
  • By tourist bus you may find yourself delivered to their favorite hotel or guest-house, otherwise you'll probably be dropped off in the vicinity of one of the long haul terminals, or if it's a service catering primarily for backpackers, somewhere near Khao San Road.

When buying tickets for buses out of Bangkok, it's best to skip travel agents and their private buses, and get the tickets for public buses directly at the public terminals. These buses are cheaper, safer, faster and more comfortable and won't scam you onto a clapped-out minibus halfway along the way or to a bedbug-infested hotel at the end.

By train

The three main stations in Bangkok are:

Hualamphong Train Station

Inside view of Hualampong train station, looking towards the platforms
Inside view of Hualampong train station, looking towards the platforms

The main station and the terminus of the Bangkok Metro line. Located right in the middle of downtown Bangkok, it is a huge and surprisingly nice station, built during the reign of King Rama VI and spared bombing in World War II at the request of the Free Thai underground. The station has a good tourist office. Only listen to the people at the Info desk - anyone walking around offering to help you "find" a hotel or taxi is just a tout, even if they are wearing very official looking badges. Likewise, the second floor shops offering "Tourist Information" are just agents in disguise.

Tickets for trains leaving the same or next day can be bought on the counters under the red/orange/green screens (see photo). The Advance Booking Office is located to the right of the platforms as you walk towards them and is quite well organized. You can select your seat/berth from a plan of the train, and payments by credit card are accepted.

The taxi pick up and drop off point is to the left of the platforms as you walk towards them, and is generally chaotic at busy periods with scant regard for any queue. The left luggage facility is at the opposite end of the concourse, on the far right as you walk away from the platforms.

Travel agencies may try to sell you a private "VIP bus" ticket if there is no place in first and second class trains, claiming to offer a direct trip to the destination with a VIP bus faster than the train. Although the trip starts with a VIP bus, it ends up with a "surprise" transfer to a minibus and extremely long journeys. Just refuse the offered private bus ticket and buy public bus tickets from the main bus terminals if you cannot find a ticket for the train.

Bang Sue Train Station

If coming from the north or north-east, connecting to the Metro here can shave the last half-hour off your train trip. This is not a very good place to board trains though, as there is practically no information or signage in English. However, this situation will doubtless improve as more and more long-distance departures are switched to here from Hualamphong.

See Phahonyothin District for more details.

[edit] Thonburi Train Station

Also known as Bangkok Noi, this station is located on the "wrong" side of the river in Thonburi District and is the starting point for services to Kanchanaburi (via Nakhon Pathom), River Kwae Bridge and Nam Tok.

There are two daily 3rd class trains: [12]

  • Depart Thonburi 07:45, arrive Nam Tok 12:20, return 13:00, terminate Thonburi at 17:36
  • Depart Nam Tok 05:25, arrive Thonburi 10:05, return 13:50, terminate Nam Tok at 18:20

Note that the weekend-only 2nd class air-con Kanchanaburi/Nam Tok "tourist" trains depart from Hualamphong. [13]

By ship

Cruise ships visiting Bangkok arrive at Laem Chabang, about 90 minutes south-east of Bangkok and about 30 minutes north of Pattaya.

A taxi service desk is available on the wharf, but charges extortionate prices - a whopping 2600 baht to charter a taxi (4 passengers), or about 5000 baht to charter a minibus (usually 11 passenger seats), for a trip into Bangkok. Slightly lower prices can be found by walking out to the main road (about 4000 baht for a minibus), however even these rates are almost double the typical rate in the opposite direction. Better deals may be possible for round trips (even if returning the following day).

Frequent first and second class bus services directly connect Laem Chabang with Ekamai (Bangkok's Eastern Bus Terminal, on Sukhumvit); less frequent direct services run to Moh Chit (Bangkok's Northern Bus Terminal). A first class air-con bus (blue and white) to either will usually take 90 minutes or less; the fare is around 100 baht. A good way to make the most of a quick visit is to board an Ekamai bus and then disembark early at the On Nut Skytrain Station on Sukhumvit Road in Bangkok (the bus will always pause here provided a passenger requests it); in the opposite direction, use the Ekamai Skytrain Station and board the bus at the terminus. To get to or return from the Chatuchak Weekend Market, use the Moh Chit bus instead.

Buses en route to Pattaya (southbound) can be boarded at the traffic lights on Sukhumvit Road in Laem Chabang, are extremely frequent (at least 10 per hour), and charge less than 50 baht.

Get around

Bangkok has the full spectrum of public transportation methods. Buses and taxis operate everywhere in the city. The Sky Train (BTS) and metro are available only in the city centre. And vans generally operate only in more out-lying areas.

Bangkok Transportation Map
Bangkok Transportation Map

By train

Skytrain

The Bangkok Skytrain [14] (BTS, pronunced bee-tee-et in Thai but also rót fai fáa or just skytrain) Deserves a visit simply for the Disneyland space-ageness of it. Built in a desperate effort to ease Bangkok's insane traffic and pollution, the Skytrain covers most of downtown and is especially convenient for visiting the Siam Square area. There are two lines: the light green Sukhumvit line which travels along Sukhumvit road and then goes up Phayonyothin to northern Bangkok, where it terminates near the Chatuchak Weekend Market (N8), and the dark green Silom line, which travels from the Silom area, interchanges with the Sukhumvit line at Siam Square (C) and ends at National Stadium, right next to MBK. There isn't, unfortunately, a station near Banglampu District (aka the Khao San Road area), but the river ferry connects between Tha Banglampu and Tha Sathorn, which is under the Silom line terminus at Saphan Taksin (S6).

You must have 5 or 10 baht coins to purchase Skytrain tickets from the vending machines near the entrance, so hold on to them. Fares range from 15 to 40 baht depending upon how many zones you are travelling. Consult the map (in English) near each ticket machine. If you do not have coins, queue for change from the staff at the booth. If you are in town for several days, weigh your options and consider a rechargable stored-value card (from 100 baht, with a 30-baht refundable deposit and a 30 baht non-refundable card cost, as of Nov 2007), a "ride all you like" tourist pass (from 120 baht/day) or a multiple ride pass of 10 trips or more. They will certainly save you time, scrambling for coins, and maybe even money. Check for information with the English speaking staff.

Four stations are fully accessible to wheelchair users, plus one station, On Nut is accessible only on the arrival side. The other fully accessible stations are Asok/Sukhumvit, Siam, Chong Nonsi and Mo Chit. To acceed to concourse level in these stations, you can use the lift - press the call button and an attendant will come and get you. At On Nut stations on the departures side, the attendant will help you also to get to platform level through the escalator since the elevator can be used only to get to intercourse level. Siam Station is also accessible independently through the linked Siam Paragon department store.

For more information, contact the Bangkok Mass Transit System at Tel: 0 2617 7340, 0 2617 6000 or visit [15]

Metro

Bangkok Metro [16] (MRT, pronunced em-ar-tee in Thai but also rót fai tai din)finally opened in July 2004. The Blue Line connects the central Hualamphong railway station (1) to the northern Bang Sue station (18), with interchanges to the Skytrain at Silom/Sala Daeng (3/S2), Sukhumvit/Asok (7/E4) and Chatuchak/Mo Chit (15/N8). You can also transfer to north/northeast-bound SRT trains at the northern terminus Bang Sue.

Park & Ride Building is available at Thailand Cultural Centre Station (200 spaces) and Lat Phrao Station (2,200 spaces) expect this Park & Ride will be full during weekday morning. Parking also available at the following stations:

  • Sam Yan Station parking lot, 30 spaces at Entrances 1.
  • Sukhumvit Station parking lot, 30 spaces at Entrances 1.
  • Phetchaburi Station parking lot, 60 spaces at Entrances 1
  • Thailand Culteral Centre Station parking lot, 30 spaces at Entrances 1.
  • Huai Khwang Station parking lot, 30 spaces at Entrances 1.
  • Ratchadaphisek Station parking lot, 30 spaces at Entrances 4.
  • Chatuchak Park Station parking lot, 1,250 spaces at Entrances 3, 4 North Bus terminal (old) Area.
  • Bang Sue Station parking lot, 500 spaces at Entrances 2, SRT Area.

Metro tickets are not interchangeable with Skytrain tickets. Rides cost from 15 to 39 baht depending on distance; pre-paid cards of up to 1000 baht are also available. For single ride fares, a round plastic token is used.

The metro stop for the Chatuchak Weekend Market is not Chatuchak Park, but one stop further at Kamphaeng Phet (16). The latter drops you right inside the market.

All metro stations are fully accessible to wheelchair users. If the elevator has been put out of service, just ask the security staff present at every station and an attendant will come and get you to help you to deal with all the process of buying tickets and get to the train platform level.

For moe information call 0 2624 5200 or visit [17] for further information.

Note that at present bag-checks take place at the entrance to each station, although it is usually nothing more than a quick peek inside unless you are looking particularly suspicious.

River Taxis

Taxis that are even more unusual, though equally convenient, are the river taxis that ply the Chao Phraya River. Some are just cross river ferries, but others serve the many landing stages on both banks and cover a route that goes up as far as the northern suburb of Nonthaburi. Call 0 2225 3003, 0 2623 6001-3, 0 2222 5330 or visit [18] for further information.

There is also a canal boat taxi along the Saen Saep Canal.

By boat

Chao Phraya Express Boat
Chao Phraya Express Boat

A ride on the Chao Phraya River should be high on any tourist's agenda. The cheapest and most popular option is the Chao Phraya Express Boat, [19] basically an aquatic bus plying up and down the river. The basic service (12 baht) plies from Wat Rajsingkorn (S4) all the way to Nonthaburi (N30), with stops at most of Rattanakosin's major attractions including the Grand Palace, the Temple of Dawn, etc. Board at piers with a sign showing the route and pay the ticket collector who will approach you bearing a long metal cylinder. In addition to the basic service, there are express services flagged with yellow or orange flags, which stop only at major piers and should be avoided unless you're sure where you're going. The signposting of the piers is quite clear, with numbered piers and English route maps, and the Central station offers easy interchange to the BTS Saphan Taksin station.

Most piers will also be served by cross-river ferries which are particularly useful for reaching Wat Arun or Thonburi. They run every few minutes and cost 3 baht - pay at the kiosk on the pier and then walk through the turnstile.

In addition to the workaday express boat, there is also a Tourist Boat which stops at a different subset of piers, offers commentary in English and charges several times the price. The boats are slightly more comfortable and not a bad option for a hop or two, but don't get bullied into buying the overpriced day pass.

The Tourism Authority of Thailand’s approved Sri Phraya Boat Trip Co. Ltd can be reached on 02-353-108.

A canal boat running at high speed with a helmeted satchel-wielding ticket collector navigating along the slippery outer ledge.
A canal boat running at high speed with a helmeted satchel-wielding ticket collector navigating along the slippery outer ledge.

Canal boats also serve Khlong Saen Saeb, one of Bangkok's many canals (khlong). They're cheap and immune to Bangkok's notorious traffic jams, but mostly used by locals who use these water taxis to commute to work and school and shopping, so you get to see the 'backside' of the neighborhoods, so to speak. They're also comparatively safe -- just watch your step when boarding and disembarking (they don't stop at the pier for long) and be wary of the water as it can be quite polluted, do not let it get in your eyes. Pay the fare (14-22 baht) to the fearless helmet-wearing ticket collectors who clamber around on the outside of the boat, ducking at bridges, as it barrels down the canal. The canal runs parallel to Petchaburi Road, and provides the easiest access from the city center to the Golden Mount. There's a boarding pier across from the WTC under the bridge where Ratchadamri crosses the khlong near Petchburi, and piers now even have (tiny) signs in English. Be aware that for journeys going beyond Pratunam, passengers have to change boats at Pratunam. Hold on to your ticket. The only station missing a sign in English was the stop at The Mall in Bangkapi, and it's not obvious that it's a mall from the canal boat!

Finally, for trips outside the set routes, you can hire a long-tail river taxi at any major pier. These are fairly expensive and will attempt to charge as much as 500 baht/hour, but with haggling may be suitable for small groups. To circumvent the mafia-like touts who attempt to get a (large) cut for every ride, agree for the price of the shortest possible ride (half an hour etc), then negotiate directly with the captain when on board.

By bus

Local buses, mostly operated by the Bangkok Mass Transit Authority (BMTA), are the cheapest but also the most challenging way of getting around, as there is a bewildering plethora of routes, usually marked only in Thai. If you can speak Thai you can call 184 Bus Route Hotline. Bus stops usually list only the bus numbers that stop there and nothing more. They are also subject to Bangkok's notorious traffic, often terribly crowded, and many are not air-conditioned. If you want to get somewhere quickly and are not prepared to get lost, the buses should be avoided (remember that taxis are cheaper than most local buses in the west). However, they make for a good adventure if you're not in a rush and you don't mind being the centre of attention.

But for the intrepid, and those staying in Khao San Road where buses are the only practical means of public transport, the best online resource for decrypting bus routes is the official BMTA homepage [20], which has up-to-date if slightly incomplete listings of bus routes in English but no maps. You can also ask your guesthouse about buses to where you are going. If you're going between Khao San Road and downtown, bus number 2 (red and cream) is probably your best option. As a printed reference, the Bus Routes & Map guide (50 baht) by Bangkok Guides is another option.

The hierarchy of Bangkok's buses from cheapest to best can be ranked as follows:

  • Small green bus, 7.50 baht flat fare. Cramped, no air-con, no fan, famously suicidal drivers, not advisable for more than short hops.
  • Red bus, 7 baht flat fare. More spacious and fan-cooled (in theory). Unlike other buses, some of these run through the night (1.50 baht surcharge). These buses are BMTA run.
  • White/blue bus, 8.5 baht flat fare. Exactly the same as the red buses, but cost one baht more. These buses are owned by private entities operated in conjunction with BMTA.
  • Blue/Yellow and Cream/Blue air-con, 11 baht for the first 8 kilometers, up to 18 baht max. These buses are quite comfy. The blue/yellow striped buses are privately owned while the Blue/Cream buses are BMTA owned.
  • Orange air-con (Euro II), 13 baht for the first few kilometers, up to 22 baht max. These are all BMTA-run, newer, and more comfortable.
  • Pink/white micro-buses - not quite so common away from the city centre - these are air-conditioned, modern and only allow seated passengers (making them harder to use at rush hour as many won't stop for you). Flat fare is 25 baht which is paid into a fare-collection machine located next to the driver - exact fare only.

Buses stop only when needed, so wave them down (arm out, palm down) when you see one barreling your way. Pay the roaming collector after you board and keep the ticket as there are occasional spot-checks. Press the signal buzzer (usually near the door) when you want to get off.

Two further pitfalls are that buses of the same number may run slightly different routes depending on the color, and there are also express services (mostly indicated by yellow signs) that skip some stops and may take the expressway (2 baht extra).

Airport buses allow luggage (backpacks and suitcases), but regular buses do not. Enforcement of this rule varies.

A regular bus service is provided by the Bangkok Mass Transit Authority (BMTA) and its contracted operators throughout Bangkok as well as to its outskirts during 4 a.m. – 11 p.m. and around the clock on certain routes. Public buses are plentiful and cheap, with a minimum fare of 7 baht to most destinations within metropolitan Bangkok. Air-conditioned buses have minimum and maximum fares of 11 and 24 baht, respectively. Air-conditioned micro-buses charge a flat fare of 25 baht all routes. A Bus Route Map is available at bookshops. For more information, call 184.

By taxi

Taxis are a quick and comfortable way to get around town, at least if the traffic is flowing your way. All taxis are now metered and air-conditioned: the hailing fee is 35 baht and most trips within Bangkok cost less than 100 baht. There are no surcharges (except from the airport), even at night; don't believe drivers who try to tell you otherwise. A red lit sign on the front window means that the taxi is available.

When the meter is switched on you will see a red '35' somewhere on the dashboard or between the driver and you. Be sure to check for this at the start of the ride, as many drivers will "forget" to start the meter in order to overcharge you at the end of your trip. Most will start the meter when asked politely to do so (meter na khrap/kha (male/female)); if the driver refuses to use the meter after a couple of attempts, simply exit the taxi. In some cases, late at night and especially near major tourist districts like Khao San or Patpong, you will need to walk a block away to catch a meter cab. The effort can save you as much as 150 baht. This is often also the case for taxis that park all day in front of your hotel. The only two reasons that they are there: 1) To take you places where they can get their commissions (Jewelry stores, massage parlors, etc) and 2) To overcharge you by not using the meter. Your best bet is to walk to the road and catch an unoccupied metered taxi in motion (easier than it sounds, as Bangkok traffic tends to crawl the majority of the time, and one car out of four is a taxi). Avoid parked taxis altogether, and if a taxi driver refuses to turn the meter on, simply close the door and find one who will. If they say the meter is broken, a good tactic is to turn it on for them. Keep in mind that it is illegal for them to have unmetered fares. Be smart and give your money to honest drivers, not touts. The only reason they get away with this so frequently is because foreign tourists let them.

Be sure to either know the correct pronunciation of your destination, or have it written in Thai, as taxi drivers in Bangkok are notoriously bad at reading maps. Most hotels and guesthouses will happily write out addresses in Thai for you. While most drivers will recognize the names of tourist hot spots, even if grossly mispronounced, it is often difficult to properly pronounce addresses in Thai, a tonal language. If your mobile phone works in Thailand, it is sometimes useful to phone your hotel and ask the staff to speak to your driver in Thai.

If you're pinching pennies or fussy about your means of transportation, you may wish to think twice before getting into one of the (very common) yellow-green taxis. They are owner-operated and of highly variable quality, and occasionally they have rigged meters. All other colors belong to large taxi companies, which usually enforce their standards better.

On some routes, the driver will ask if he should use the Tollway - this will usually save a lot of time. You have to pay the cost at the toll booth (not in advance, and not at the end of the journey). Watch how much the driver really pays, he may try to keep the change.

When getting out, try to have small bills (100 baht or less) or expect problems with change. Tips are not necessary, but are certainly welcome; most local passengers will round up, or leave any coin change as tip.

By tuk-tuk

Tuk-tuks on the prowl
Tuk-tuks on the prowl

Finally, what would Bangkok be without the much-loathed, much-loved, tuk-tuks? You'll know them when you hear them, and you'll hate them when you smell them — these three-wheeled contraptions blaze around Bangkok leaving a black cloud of smog in their wake. For anything more than a 5-10 minute jaunt or just the experience, they really are not worth the price — and, if you let them get away with it, the price will usually be 4 or 5 times what it should be anyway (which, for Thais, is around 30% less than the equivalent metered taxi fare). On the other hand, you can sometimes ride for free if you agree to visit touristy clothing or jewelry shops (which give the tuk-tuk driver gas coupons and commissions for bringing customers). The shops' salesmen are pushy, but you are free to leave after five to ten minutes of browsing. Visitors should beware though, sometimes one stop can turn in to three, and your tuk-tuk driver may not be interested in taking you where you need to go once he has his gas coupons. Also, with Bangkok's densly congested traffic it is sure to spend hours of your time.

In case you actually want to get somewhere, and you're an all-male party, be careful with the tuk-tuk drivers, they will usually just ignore your destination and start driving you to some bordello ("beautiful girls"). Insist continually and forcefully on going only to your destination.

There's also a less-heralded, less-colourful and less-touristy version of the tuk-tuk that usually serves the back sois in residential neighborhoods. They usually have four wheels instead of three and resemble a tiny truck / ute / lorry, and they run on petrol instead of LP. The maids and locals tend to use them to return home from market with loads of groceries, or for quick trips if they're available. Negotiate before you get in, but don't expect to go much beyond the edge of that particular neighborhood.

By bicycle

Go cycling! It may sound crazy, but it certainly is not. Away from the main roads there is a fast system of small streets and alleys. Cyclists are treated as pedestrians, so you can use your bicycle to explore parks, temple complexes, markets and the more quiet residential areas of eastern Bangkok. In more crowded places you can cycle on the sidewalk. Exploring the town by bicycle has all the advantages of going by foot, combined with a much greater action radius and a cooling breeze when cycling.

Buy

Racks of clothing at Siam Square
Racks of clothing at Siam Square

Bangkok is full of shopping malls and street markets of all types, especially in the Sukhumvit area; see the section for details. Prices can be cheap by Western standards, especially for locally produced items such as clothes, although bargaining is expected and required. Dump a teenager in Siam Center, Siam Square, Siam Paragon, MBK or The Emporium with a few thousand baht and they'll stay occupied for the rest of the week! Most malls tend to have excellent food courts.

Weekend Market: A major attraction on weekends is the gigantic Chatuchak Weekend Market (a.k.a. JJ Market), in northern Bangkok but easily accessible by Skytrain and Metro. Take the metro and get off Kamphaeng Phet station which opens right into the market. Takes around an hour on the bus from Khao San Road area. If you're staying in Pratunam, metered fare should not go beyond 100 baht. Has 20,000 stalls selling everything from counterfeit goods, animals, art, furniture and probably anything else you can think of. Definitely worth a visit for the sheer size of it. There are food stalls everywhere. Forego the cutesy cafes for the humbler stalls. Flavored iced and fried wontons will provide fuel for the whole day. Closes at around 6PM. Keep a close eye on your valuables.

Night Market: Hugely popular with tourists & locals alike is the open air Suan Lum Night Bazaar. This is a large and colourful market offering bargains on everything from clothes, bags, crockery to organic foods. A smaller, cooler and cleaner version of Chatuchak - same wares sold for 20% more. There is a large food court with a live band every night. Beer seems to be the official beverage of this place - lots of beer gardens here. Covered in more detail in the Silom section.

Patpong Night Market: Between the strip clubs and bars along Patpong Road is the Patpong night market. This market is designed for tourists and is not frequented by locals. These markets are home to a variety of counterfeit merchandise including watches, clothes, bags, and cosmetics as well as Thai tourist products such as model tuk-tuks and kick-boxing shorts. The prices at this market are exorbitant and anyone brave enough to buy anything here should bargain extensively. Most items available at Patpong Night Market are available for less than half the price at other locations in Bangkok.

What to buy

  • Books: B2S on the the 3rd floor of the Central World Plaza is Bangkok's largest bookstore, holding around 30,000 titles (many in English) and a large selection of magazines. Japanese chain Kinokuniya [66] also has a large outlet in Siam Paragon (Level 3 South) and one in Emporium, both with a very large selection of books in English (the Paragon branch also has a limited selection of books in German and French). The Asia Books [67] chain has several outlets all over Bangkok (see their web site); they have a good selection of books on Asia as well as books on architecture, interior design and decoration. Lastly if you want to trade books, or else buy second hand books, there is a shop between Sukhumvit soi 33 and 35 that does this for quite a reasonable price and is quite popular with the local expats.
  • Clothing: off-the-shelf: Thailand is a major clothing manufacturer and locally produced unbranded clothing is very cheap. MBK, Platinum mall and Chatuchak weekend market are a few places to visit for this. Branded clothing made in Thailand (eg. Levi's jeans) can also be good buys. For women, the lingerie salons in the department stores are must-sees. Wacoal is locally produced and are half the price in Bangkok.
  • Clothing: tailored: Bangkok is well-known for its plethora of tailors and high-quality fabric available locally. The vast majority of tailor shops are actually just sales fronts for a few large operations that do the actual work, so don't fret too much about which one to pick; however, do avoid any tailor recommended by taxis/tuktuks or that has to resort to touts, as you'll have to pay their commission. Avoid super-cheap packages or anything done in 24 hours, as the quality will suffer accordingly. It will help considerably if you know fabrics and what style you want (bring along a sample or at least a picture), and can spare the time for at least three sessions for a suit (measurement, fitting and final adjustment). Tailors can be found all over town, but Sukhumvit Road has the heaviest concentration.
  • Electronics: Pantip Plaza (off Sukhumvit) and Fortune Center (Ratchadaphisek) are the places to go for branded laptops to cheap VOIP phones and pirated DVDs. A must for any computer & electronics buff. See also: Electronics and entertainment shopping in Thailand. Be warned though, electronics are NOT necessarily cheaper in Thailand then they are back home. Also always get international warranty as you would want your electronics to be able to be fixed back home as well!
  • Medicine: Bangkok's pharmacies (drugstores) tend to offer a very wide range of (wholly legal and legitimate) medicines and herbal remedies at a fraction of Western prices, including many drugs that would require a doctor's prescription in other countries. Thai pharmacists tend to be exceptionally helpful, and most speak excellent English. There are small, independent pharmacists on almost every corner, and you'll find bigger (and more expensive) chains on the major streets and in shopping centers. Boots is probably the most ubiquitous chain; they're also a reliable source for traveler's toiletries.

Where to buy

Shopping Areas and Markets

Shopping in Bangkok is not limited to one or two major streets. There are many areas throughout Bangkok affording ample choices and easy access. The following is just a selection of some of the principal shopping areas.

  • Ploenchit-Ratchaprasong (เพลินจิต-ราชประสงค์)

Top department stores and luxury shopping malls are concentrated in the area, namely Central, Gaysorn Plaza, Isetan, Zen, Erawan Bangkok, Peninsula Plaza, all of which together make the largest shopping promenade in Bangkok. Furthermore, Central World Plaza and Narayana Phand Pavilion, host the official handicraft centre selling items from all parts of the country. Ratchaprasong intersection is the gateway to several shopping areas such as Phloenchit-Sukhumvit, Siam Square-Mahboonkrong, Silom and Pratunam-Phetchaburi.

  • Silom-Surawong-Patpong (สีลม-สุรวงศ์-พัฒพงษ์)

Silom Road is the main artery of Bangkok’s commercial heart and is paralleled by Surawong Road, while Patpong Road runs crosswise between the two. In addition to housing dozens of specialist shops and boutiques representing all the major buys, this area also boasts many branches of well-known retailers , Tailors and several shopping plazas.Montien Plaza being the most famous and Excelsior tailors. Street stalls also abound, most notably at Patpong’s famous night market.

  • Silom-Mahesak-Charoenkrung Road (สีลม-มเหศักดิ์-เจริญกรุง)

Silom leads into Charoen Krung Road which parallels the Chao Phraya River, and notable shopping opportunities include gems and jewellery stores (Mahesak Road is a gem trading centre), Oriental Plaza and River City shopping complex.

  • Sukhumvit (สุขุมวิท)

Like Silom, Sukhumvit is one of Bangkok’s main thoroughfares, and the long road is lined with shops, boutiques and modern shopping plazas ranging from Soi 3 (Nana Nua) up to Soi 63 (Ekkamai). Most shops and restaurants are concentrated between Soi 3 and Soi 21 (Asok) and along shortcuts between Asok and Ekkamai. Sombat Permpoon Gallery at Sukhumvit Soi 1 sells both paintings and sculptures by established artists and those of the new generation.

  • Pratunam-Phetchaburi (ประตูน้ำ-เพชรบุรี)

A highlight in the district is Pratunam market, one of Bangkok’s biggest centres for ready-to-wear clothing.

Baiyoke Tower (ตึกใบหยก) Located next to Bangkok’s tallest hotel building, Baiyoke tower is one of the city’s renowned garment centres.

  • Nai Lert Plaza (ศูนย์การค้านายเลิศ)

Situated close to Pratunam Market, Nai Lert Market is one of many shopping areas in Bangkok where you can buy just about everything from clothing to handicrafts.

  • Bang Lamphu (บางลำพู)

Situated close to the Grand Palace, Bang Lamphu has a lively market where clothing is a popular buy.

  • Chinatown (ย่านเยาวราช)

In the center of Yaowarat Road and Sampheng Lane, Bangkok’s Chinatown offers a profusion of gold shops as well as several nearby traditional shopping places such as Ban Mo Jewellery Street, Phahurat Cloth Market and the Old Siam Plaza.

  • Bo-be Market (ตลาดโบ๊เบ๊)

Situated close to Bangkok Railway Station, Bo-be is one of the city’s most renowned ready-to-wear clothing centres, both wholesale and retail.

  • Jatujak or Chatuchak Weekend Market (ตลาดนัดจตุจักร)

Located adjacent to Chatuchak Park, the weekend market, open on Saturday and Sunday, is a Bangkok landmark where shoppers can buy just about everything from clothing to potted plants and everything in between - - a paradise for browsers and bargain-hunters alike. The market also offers items of furniture and home decor. It is also where professional and amateur art-lovers and artists meet.

  • Pak Khlong Talat (ปากคลองตลาด)

This is a wholesale market for all kinds of cut flowers and vegetables. It is located on Maharat Road near the Memorial Bridge. The market is crowded in the early morning and in the evening.

  • Saphan Phut (สะพานพุทธ)

A night market beneath Phra Phuttayotfa Bridge, known locally as Saphan Phut, selling second-hand items such as clothes, shoes and many other items.

  • Lang Krasuang (หลังกระทรวงกลาโหม)

The name literally means “behind the Ministry” and refers to an area behind the Ministry of Defence on Atsadang Road, which runs along Khlong Lot. On sale are military items such as uniforms, territorial defence student uniforms, shoes as well as travelling accessories like tents, sleeping bags and camping pots. There are shops selling musical instruments nearby.

  • Khlong San Pier (ท่าเรือคลองสาน)

Located in a soi off Charoen Nakhon Road, the area offers items like ready-to-wear clothes for teenagers and shoes at relatively low prices.

  • Woeng Nakhon Kasem (เวิ้งนาครเกษม)

A quarter of Thai and Chinese antiquities and art objects such as blue-and-white porcelain, brass ware and furniture decorated with mother-of-pearl inlay. It is located near Charoen Krung and Yaowarat Roads.

  • Thewet (เทเวศร์)

This is a pot plants market along the bank of Khlong Phadung Krung Kasem off Samsen Road.

Handicrafted products are available at the Chitralada Shop, which offers items from the SUPPORT Foundation, or at Narayana Phand Pavilion on Ratchadamri Road, open daily during 10 a.m. – 8 p.m. Tel. 0 2252 4670-9 and 0 2255 4328-9.

  • Taling Chan Floating Market (ตลาดน้ำตลิ่งชัน)

The floating market is located in front of Taling Chan District Office and renders a blend of a rural market and canal side way of life. On weekends during 7 a.m.-5 p.m., vendors who are in fact local farmers take their produce including plants, vegetables, fruits, fish and various kinds of food to this market for sale. The produce varies seasonally. There are also floating food shops and a private-run canal tour service for visitors to enjoy the district’s canal side way of life as well as farming. Open: Sat-Sun Admission: free Tel: For more details, please contact Khun Noppadol, Head of the Floating Markets Community at Tel. 08 1374 7616 or Taling Chan District Office, Tel. 0 2424 1742 and 0 2424 5448.

  • Wat Sai Floating Market (ตลาดน้ำวัดไทร)

Situated in Chom Thong district on the Thonburi side of Bangkok, this floating market used to be a popular touristic site for visitors to admire a canal side way of life. Construction of new roads within the area left the floating market abandoned before it was recently revived to resume its charm. A canal tour along this historic waterway to enjoy the floating market crowded with boats of farm produce for sale as well as life along the banks of Khlong Sanam Chai, especially on weekends, is available. Stop to visit Tamnak Thong and the old Ho Klong - a drum tower - of Ayutthayan architecture at Wat Sai, a Chinese style royal residence of King Rama III and Chinese sculpture at Wat Ratcha-orot, pay respect to the bejewelled Buddha image and appreciate mural paintings depicting the Chinese tale of Sam Kok or ‘The Romance of the Three Kingdoms’ at Wat Nang Nong, pay respect to Luangpu Thao at Wat Nang and view a snake-catching show at a snake farm on the bank of Khlong Dan.

To get there, drive along Ekachai Road that runs by Wat Sai or take bus No. 43 or 120 from Wongwian Yai. A boat for rent is also available from Tha Chang or Chang Pier along the Chao Phraya River and into canals to Wat Sai. Open: Daily Admission: Free

  • Damnoen Saduak Floating Market (ตลาดน้ำดำเนินสะดวก)

This popular attraction is some 80 kilometres west of Bangkok, accessible by regular bus from the Southern Bus Terminal. Everyday, hundreds of vendor boats crowd the market area in the early morning till noon.

Eat








Bangkok not only has plenty of Thai restaurants, but a wide-selection of world-class international cuisine too. Prices are generally high by Thai standards, but cheap by international standards; a good meal is unlikely to cost more than 300 baht, although there are a few restaurants (primarily in hotels) where you can easily spend 10 times this. Of course, for those on a budget street stalls abound with noodle & meals at around 30 baht. Try:

  • Phad Thai and curry at shops everywhere.
  • Tom Yum Goong, you must try one of Thailand's most famous soup.
  • Street vendors selling satay with hot sauce (for 5-10 baht a piece).
  • Finding a kanom roti street vendor is a must if you like sweets. The crepe-like dessert is filled with sweetened condensed milk, lots of sugar, and can also have bananas inside. Also fascinating to watch them being made.
  • Bugs - yes, insects. They are deep fried, nutritious and quite tasty with the soy sauce that is sprayed on them. Types available: scorpions, water beetles, grasshoppers, crickets, bamboo larvae, mealworms, and some more seasonal specialties. Note: break off the legs from grasshoppers and crickets or they will get stuck in your throat.
  • Chinatown has a range of street stalls and cheap restaurants selling food (try 1kg of huge barbecued prawns or tom yam with prawns for 300 baht) to the discerning local population.
  • All the Thai restaurant chains covered in the main Thailand article.
  • Restaurants featuring cuisine from all over the world on Sukhumvit Road and Khao San Road.


Thai massage Bangkok










Thai massage is one of the skills that makes the country famous and it isn’t because of sleaze either. In fact, there are many qualified Thai massage practictioners across the city who have been properly trained in this ancient art that derives from Ayurvedic medicine and has been passed down through the generations. Most famously it is taught by the monks at Wat Pho and is considered a very healthy and rejuvenating treatment.

Of course, many visitors to Bangkok imagine a trip to a massage shop as something entirely more discreet and dirty, and if that’s what you are after we recommend you read our page on body massage.

Thai massage is famous for relaxing tired and tense muscles
Thai massage is famous for relaxing tired and tense muscles

For the rest of us, receiving a Thai massage in Bangkok is one of those activities that ought to be top of your list, and it’s a great way to soothe the aches and pains and relieve the stress of a busy day hitting the pavements in Bangkok. It’s surprisingly cheap and during a one or two hour session you will be gently kneaded, stretched, contorted and ‘re-aligned’, leaving you a relaxed and rejuvenated.

Massage is an integral part of life in Bangkok as it is through the rest of Thailand. Within Thai families it is a common practice for family members to massage one another, especially young people massaging their elders as a sign of respect and affection. Often individual family members pass down techniques in massage that have survived through the generations.

Not surprisingly then, there are hundreds of Bangkok massage shops dotted throughout the city offering a full range of massage services at excellent prices. Massage services can be found in small shops throughout the city and in the lobbies of many hotels. Prices for an hour of traditional Thai massage can range anywhere from Bt150 per hour and up. It’s cheaper if you visit an out-of-the-way shop and only have a basic massage. It’s far more expensive in hotels, luxury spas and if you choose extras such as using herbs etc.



Drink

The Dome (Sirocco), Silom
The Dome (Sirocco), Silom


Bangkok's nightlife used to be round-the clock but due to recent social order campaigns there have been quite a lot of crack-downs. Nearly all restaurants, bars and clubs are now forced to close before 1 AM, a few are allowed to stay open till 2 AM. (Informal sidewalk bars do stay open all night, particularly in lower Sukhumvit.) You must carry your passport for ID checks and police occasionally raid bars, subjecting all customers to drug tests (discos only), though these mostly occur at places that cater for hi-society Thais.

One of Bangkok's main party districts is Silom, home not only to perhaps the world's most famous go-go bar strip Patpong, but plenty of more legitimate establishments catering to all tastes. For a drink with a view, the open-air rooftop bar/restaurants of Vertigo and Sirocco are particularly impressive. Similar bars to the ones at Patpong can be found in the lower Sukhumvit area, at Nana Entertainment Plaza (soi 4) and Soi Cowboy (soi 23), while a large number of more trendy and more expensive bars and nightclubs can be found in the higher sois as well, eg. Thong Lor (soi 55), Bed Supperclub, Q Bar, or Met bar. Hippie hangout Khao San Road is also slowly gentrifying and a score of young trendy Thai teenagers have also made their mark there. Most of the younger Thais though, still prefer to congregate around Ratchadaphisek Road.

Smoking is forbidden in all restaurants, bars and nightclubs, whether air-conditioned or non-air-conditioned.

Go-go and beer bars








The go-go bar is an institution of Bangkok's "naughty nightlife". In a typical go-go, several dozen dancers in bikinis (or less) crowd the stage, shuffling back and forth to loud music and trying to catch the eye of punters in the audience. Some (but not all) also put on shows where girls perform on stage, but these are generally tamer than you'd expect — nudity, for example, is technically forbidden. In a beer bar, there are no stages and the girls are wearing street clothes.

If this sounds like a thinly veiled veneer for prostitution, it is. Though some point to the large number of American GIs during the Vietnam War as the point of origin of the Thai sex trade, others have claimed that current Thai attitudes towards sexuality have deeper roots in Thai history. Both go-go and beer bars are squarely aimed at the foreign tourists and it's fairly safe to assume that most if not all Thais in them are on the take. That said, it's perfectly OK to check out these shows without actually partaking, and there are more and more curious couples and even the occasional tour group attending. The main areas are around Patpong, Nana Entertainment Plaza and Soi Cowboy.

See also the Stay safe|Prostitution section.

Gay nightlife




Thais are generally accepting of homosexuality and Bangkok has a very active gay nightlife scene, concentrated in Silom Sois 2 & 4 and a short strip of gay go-gos bars off nearby Th Surawong. Most of these bars, however, are aimed at gay men and the lesbian scene is much more low-key. The most popular gay bars are Balcony and Telephone bar at Silom soi 4, and for the disco crowd DJ Station and its late-night neighbour G.O.D., which are located at Silom soi 2 (packed every night beginning around 11 p.m.). Bangkok's two two full-time lesbian bars are Zeta and Shela, with Lesla also open on Saturday nights only. Bring along your passport for entrance age checking (they do not allow people under 20 years old). Closing time is 2-3 a.m.

In a league of their own are Bangkok's numerous transsexuals (kathoey), both pre- and post-operative, popularly known as ladyboys. Some work in the famed transvestite cabarets and there are some dedicated kathoey bars as well, but most do their best to blend in and many have the art of deception down pat. Telltale signs to look out for include tall height, large hands and an Adam's apple.

Note that some Thai regulars in the gay nightlife scene skirt the fine line between partying and prostitution, and the Western visitor, being considered richer, is expected to pay any food and drink expenses and perhaps provide some "taxi money" in the morning. It's usually wise to ask a boy you pick up in a bar or club if he is after money, as it's not uncommon for them to start demanding money after sex.

Sleep


Boutique options such as the Old Bangkok Inn are now ubiquitous in Thailand's main cities
Boutique options such as the Old Bangkok Inn are now ubiquitous in Thailand's main cities

Bangkok has a vast range of accommodation, including some of the best hotels in the world — and some of the worst dives too. Broadly speaking, Khao San Road is backpacker city; the riverside by Rattanakosin is home to The Oriental and The Peninsula, often ranked among the best in the world (and priced to match); and Sukhumvit Road has hotels (and hostels) for all budgets. When choosing your digs, pay careful attention to Skytrain and Metro access; a well-placed station will make your stay in Bangkok much more comfortable.

Boutique hotels have mushroomed in Bangkok during the past few years, they usually provide less number of rooms (usually 10 or less) and a more personalized service. With most types of accommodations, a majority of boutique hotels can be found in the Old Bangkok (Rattanakosin Island) and Sukhumvit Road area.

One Bangkok hotel phenomenon of note is the guest fee of around 500 baht added to your bill if you bring along a newly found friend for the night, (very few if any hotels, even five-stars, will actually refuse guests). This is obviously aimed at controlling local sex workers, which is why hotel security will usually also hold onto your guest ID card for the duration of the visit, but some hotels will also apply it to Western visitors — or, more embarrassingly, try to apply it to your Thai partner.

Stay safe

Useful number

  • Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT): 1672, 0 2250 5500
  • Tourist Police: 1155
  • Bangkok Tourist Bureau: +66-2225 7612-4
  • Thai Airways: 1566 (flight schedules), +66-2280 0060, +66-2628 2000 (reservation)
  • Suvarnabhumi Airport: +66-2723 0000
  • Bangkok Railway Station: 1690, +66-2220 4334
  • Eastern Bus Terminal: +66-2391 2504, +66-2391 6846
  • Southern Bus Terminal: +66-2894 6122
  • Northern/ Northeastern Bus Terminal (Mo Chit 2): +66-2936 2852 -66
  • BMTA Public Bus: 184
  • Telephone Number Inquiry: 113

Given its size and poverty level Bangkok is surprisingly safe, with violent crimes like mugging and robbery unusual. However, Bangkok does have more than its fair share of touting and scams, and quite a few individuals in the tourist business think nothing of overcharging visitors.

As a rule of thumb, it is wise to decline all offers made by someone who appears to be a friendly local giving a hapless tourist some local advice. Most Bangkok locals do not approach foreigners without an ulterior motive.

In 2008, political unrest hit the headlines, with the yellow-shirted People's Alliance for Democracy (PAD) closing down both of Bangkok's airports for a week and several people killed in political violence. As of December 2008, things are more or less back to normal, but the situation remains unstable.

Scams

Some common scams and guidelines for avoiding them:

  • Beware of all offers of gems and (supposedly) precious stones. These sophisticated and highly professional "special discount" scams, often involving promises of high resale value back home at a supposedly huge profit, sometimes even employ foreigners to act as satisfied customers.
  • Beware of tuk-tuk drivers offering all-day tours for prices as low as 10 baht. You may indeed be taken on a full-day tour, but you will only end up visiting one gem and souvenir shop after another. The driver gets a commission if you buy something and gas coupons even if you don't.
  • Insist on the meter for taxis, and agree on a price in advance for tuk-tuks. If they refuse, or quote silly prices, just walk out and get a different one, they're rarely in short supply.
  • Be highly skeptical of anyone telling you that your intended destination is currently closed (including skytrain and metro stations), or offering discount admissions. Temples are almost always free (the main exceptions are Wat Phra Kaew and Wat Pho) and open just about every day of the year. Anyone telling you otherwise, even if they have an official-looking identification card, is most likely out to scam you, especially if they suggest some alternate sights to see until the sight reopens. At paid admission sites, verify the operating hours at the ticket window.
One particularly smooth scam--so smooth you'd never realize it was a scam--occurs when someone standing near the entrance to a tourist destination tells you it's temporarily closed for a special event and suggests some alternate (free!) sights to see for the next few hours until it reopens. The sights sound harmless enough--beautiful temples and cultural centers--and the person says you should be able to get a tuk-tuk to visit them all (and wait for you at each one) for a pretty low price (maybe 40 baht per person--not quite low enough to arouse suspicion). He might even tell you to only use the tuk-tuks with yellow license plates with a taxi sign on top, as the ones with white license plates are unregistered, while the yellow ones are government-controlled (yet another friendly, trust-building piece of advice). He'll wave a tuk-tuk over for you and "negotiate" with the driver for your tour and give you a map (or draw on one you have) with these destinations written down.
At the first stop--a beautiful, quiet, neighborhood wat--you'll "randomly" stumble into a friendly stranger (who may even claim to have lived in your home country for a while and will chat you up about life there--an honest, friendly person, right?), who will tell you that there was a big celebration the previous day and that there is a gem store offering special prices for that day only because of the celebration. He'll ask for the map that the first person gave you and confirm that it's the same place you were already going to. Surely two independent people, with absolutely no ties between them and halfway across the city, can't be wrong, can they?
You'll visit a gem shop, which probably has hugely overinflated prices. It might even look like a quality place--clean, modern, large, a huge assortment of jewelry (it's not necessarily junk, though always be skeptical of gem quality at any shop). After that, the tuk-tuk driver will offer to take you to your third destination, another historic wat, only after you stop at one shop--a tailor, souvenier, or rug shop, probably. He'll collect his gas coupon or commission while you are pressured into buying something, and then you're on your way to the last place--maybe. Your one stop may turn into three, and you might not ever get back to your original tourist destination unless you put your foot down or simply get out and take a cab (or another tuk-tuk...).
It's so smooth--seemingly unrelated people handing you off to each other (yet all making a profit on you--you never see them communicate with each other, but it's all set up beforehand), but it's been perfected to seem like just friendly advice from locals who know the secrets--surely there are good people in the world, right? Wrong. You can never be too careful or too skeptical. (See here for some other similar accounts: [68][69])
  • There is no such thing as a Lucky Buddha or Lucky Buddha day! Touts are out to trick you into getting a tuk-tuk to visit several souvenir shops or a gem scam shop.
  • At popular tourist sites, if an English-speaking Thai approaches you out of the blue and strikes up a conversation, be wary, they are almost certainly selling something. If they ask you if it's your first time in Thailand, it's probably best to answer 'no' and walk away.
  • In the go-go bar zones, beware of touts who try to drag you into the upstairs bars with offers of ping-pong shows and 100-baht beer. The beer may well be 100 baht, but the "show" you'll be treated to will be 1000 baht or more. Rule of thumb is, if you can't see inside from street level, the establishment is best avoided.
  • Beware of private bus companies offering direct trips from Bangkok to other cities with VIP buses. There are a lot of scams performed by some private bus companies. The so-called direct VIP trips may end up changing three or four uncomfortable minibuses to the destination, the 10-11 hours trip may be 17-18 hours. Try to book public BKS buses from the main bus terminals.

Fights

DO NOT GET INTO FIGHTS WITH THE LOCALS. Thais are peace loving people but when it's a Thai versus a Foreigner, Foreigner, it might NOT always be a fair fight. You'll wind up having to fight 10 to 20 others who were not initially involved. Thais are notorious for fighting with weaponry (knives, broken bottles, metal rods, Muay Thai). These are usually produced from their concealed locations, with foreigners getting seriously injured or worse. Avoid all confrontations.

Prostitution

The age of consent is 15 but a higher minimum age of 18 applies in the case of prostitutes. Penalties for sex with minors are harsh.

All adult Thais must carry an identity card, which will state that they were born in 2532 or earlier if they were over the age of 18 on January 1st 2008 (in the Thai calendar, CE 2008 is the year 2551). Many hotels retain the ID cards of prostitutes for the duration of their visit.

Whilst most prostitutes are employed by bars or similar businesses, some are "freelancers". Petty theft and other problems are more common with "freelancers".

HIV/AIDS awareness is better than it used to be but infection statistics among entertainment industry workers remain high; "freelancers" are the highest risk group. Almost all girls insist on using condoms.

Technically, some aspects of prostitution are illegal (eg soliciting, pimping), however enforcement is liberal and brothels are commonplace. It's not illegal to pay for sex or to pay a "barfine" (a fee the bar collects if you want to take an employee away).

The novel "The Butterfly Trap" gives a realistic first-person account of Bangkok's nightlife industry.

Hospitals

  • Bangkok Hospital, 2 Soi Soonvijai 7 New Petchburi Road (Central Bangkok) [70] tel. +66-23103000.
  • Bumrungrad Hospital, 33 Sukhumvit 3 (Soi Nana Nua) Wattana (Central Bangkok) [71] tel. +66-26671000.
  • Flying Air Ambulance, Sukhumvit 3 (Soi Nana 8) (Central Bangkok) tel. +91 9821150889.

Dentists

A listing of the main dental clinics in Bangkok that have English-speaking dentists and staff:

  • Bangkok International Dental Center (BIDC), ISO 9001:2000 certified 157 Ratchadapesik Rd (Central Bangkok) [72] tel. +66-26924433 [73].
Bangkok Dental Group, Siam Square Street 2 entrance (Central Bangkok) [74] tel. +66-658 4774 [7

Get out

If you want to get out of the city for a while, there are plenty of day trip options from Bangkok.

  • Ayutthaya - Ancient capital showcasing its many ruins, 1.5 hours away by bus or train.
  • Hua Hin - Beach resort town popular with Thais and Scandinavians, 3 hours by taxi or 45 minutes by airplane
  • Bang Pa-In - Magnificent Royal Palace makes for a pleasant day trip.
  • Ko Samet - The closest Thai beach island; direct bus (from Ekamai) + ferry (from Ban Phe) takes about 4 hours.
  • Pattaya - Seaside resort and naughty nightlife 2-2.5 hours away by bus, an hour or so more by train.
  • Khao Yai National Park - Stunning mountainous scenery and some of Thailand's fledgling vineyards. 3.5 hours away by bus.

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